|
The only materials you’ll need are:
- decorator fabric
- muslin
- thread (either matching or contrasting, depending on the look you’re going for)
- extra fabric for ruffles, pleats, or tabs
- baubles, such as ribbon or silk flowers
Also gather your tools:
- large, flat work surface
- fabric measuring tape
- sewing machine with needle suited to the decorator fabric
- fabric-marking pencil or pen
- straightedge
- fabric scissors, or rotary cutter and cutting mat
- straight pins
- T-pins
- masking tape
- graph paper and pencil
- clothes iron and ironing board
- sewing machine
Measuring
Visualize the chair or sofa as a combination of parts—for example, a front, a back, a seat, and a skirt. Label each part with masking tape and a pen to prevent confusion later.
Use a fabric measuring tape to find the length and width of each part, noting where each begins and ends. Include the thickness of the chair back in either the front or back measurement, and decide where the arm seams should fall. Use masking tape or t-pins to mark a line down the center of each component; you’ll use this later when assembling the muslin paten. Double-check all measurements, then write down each part’s dimensions. Add ½ inch to each edge for seam allowances; add 2 inches more for hems at he bottom, and account for any pleats. To determine how much fabric (most are 54 inches wide) to scale on graph paper, then sketch the pieces you’ll need on top. If you choose large-scale patterned fabric, purchase extra for matching.
Making a muslin pattern
We recommend making a muslin pattern before you attempt the actual slipcover so you can double-check fit before cutting into decorator fabric. Add 4-6 inches to each measurement to make it easy to pin the pieces together, then sketch the pieces needed on a cutting diagram to determine how many yards of muslin you’ll need. (Muslin usually comes in 45-inch widths). Press the muslin with a clothes iron, if necessary.
Use a fabric-marking pencil or pen and the measurements for each component to draw pattern pieces onto the muslin. Label each piece (front, back, skirt, etc.), then use a straightedge to mark the vertical center of each. Cut out pieces with fabric scissors or a rotary cutter and cutting mat. Place each muslin pattern piece on the corresponding part of the furniture, aligning the marked centers and smoothing towards the edges. Pin each piece to the adjoining pieces, a bit loosely until all pieces are pinned together (photo 1). (Note: There will be several inches of fabric outside the pinned lines.) Step back from the furniture to check the fit, then make any necessary adjustments.
Photo 2
 |
When you’re satisfied with the fit, mark the pinned lines on the muslin (photo 2). Remove the muslin from the furniture, remove the pins, and draw a second line ½ inch outside all of the marked lines for seam allowances. Cut out each muslin component along the outer lines.
Tackling the decorator fabric
Lay out the decorator fabric right side up, press it with a clothes iron, and arrange the muslin pattern pieces—marked side up—on the straight or lengthwise grain. If you want, center the fabric’s large motifs on the back or seat pieces. Pin the muslin and decorator fabric together (photo 3), then cut out (photo 4). Label each piece on the wrong side with fabric pencil.
 Photo 3 |

Photo 4 |
Align the raw edges of two adjacent pieces (say, the front and seat) with right sides together, and sew using a ½-inch seam allowance (photo 5). Continue until all pieces are stitched together.
Photo 5
 |
Turn the cover inside out, then slip over the chair. Mark where the hem should fall at several places along the bottom edge, then remove the slipcover. Press with a clothes iron along the marked hemline, and cut the fabric 2 inches beyond the pressed line. To hem, press under 1 inch twice and sew in place. Trim corner seams to reduce bulk. Press seams open, then turn the slipcover right side out. Slip the cover over the chair, and voila: You’ve got a new (to you) piece of furniture.
Embellishing your cover
If you’re feeling fancy, dress up the slipcover with trimmings. Some will affect how you cut the decorator fabric; others can be added once the slipcover is stitched together.

Photo 6 |

Photo 7 |
To add a tailored ruffle along one edge (photo 6), measure the distance the ruffle will span, multiply by 1½ or 2 for folds, then add seam allowances. Cut a strip of decorator fabric as long as your determined measurement and twice as wide as the finished width, plus 1 inch (our finished strip is 1 inch wide). Press under long edges ½ inch, press strip in half lengthwise to conceal raw edges, and topstitch along the open side. Position ruffle strip along the desired edge of the slipcover, pinning one short, raw edge to a slipcover seam allowance. Situate your needle in the center of the strip width, pinching the fabric into ½-inch folds and stitching down the folds as you sew through all layers photo 7). Pin second raw edge to a slipcover seam allowance, and sew the raw edges into the seams when stitching the slipcover together.
Pleats are easy, too—they’re mere folds of fabric. To add a 1-inch pleat to your slipcover, add 4 inches to the width of the fabric piece that will be pleated, then cut your decorator fabric. With a T-pin, mark the spot where you want the pleat. Measure 2 inches to the right of the T-pin, and create a crease in the fabric, folding that spot back to the T-pin and pinning in place. Repeat on the left side of the T-pin. Sew pleated piece to adjacent slipcover pieces. Make a tidy tab, if you’d like, in the desired size and shape, press raw edges under ¼ inch, center tab over the pleat, and topstitch the perimeter. Pin a bundle of velour pansies to the tab for an extra flounce (photo 8.)

Photo 8 |
To create a “drop waist” look on the back of a slipcover, cut and sew the back piece so it doesn’t reach the floor. Measure and cut a skirt piece so it covers all four sides of the chair. Complete the top part of the slipcover first, then pin the skirt and sew (photo 9.)

Photo 9 |
|