Abigail Johnson Dodge gives two baking times for this biscotti recipe: 1) Less time for soft and chewy cookies (great eaten solo) and 2) more time for dry and crisp (dunk these into coffee).

2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup granulated sugar
2 tsp. finely grated lemon peel
1 1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. salt
1 cup unsalted pistachio nuts
1/2 cup lightly packed dried apricots, coarsely chopped or snipped
2 large eggs
1 yolk from large egg
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 tsp. pure vanilla

1. Position oven rack in middle of oven. Line cookie sheet with parchment paper or a nonstick baking liner (Silpat).

2. In the large bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (you can also mix by hand with a wooden spoon) combine the flour, sugar, lemon peel, baking powder, and salt. Mix until well blended. Add the nuts and apricots and beat on low speed. In a small bowl, lightly whisk together the eggs, egg yolk, lemon juice, and vanilla. With the mixer on low speed, slowly pour the egg mixture into the flour mixture. Continue beating (or mixing with the spoon or your hands) until the dough is well blended and begins to form moist clumps, about 2 minutes.

3. Transfer dough onto an unfloured work surface. Scrape any dry ingredients from the bowl and gently knead them into the dough, lightly flouring your hands if dough is too sticky. Divide dough into 2 equal piles. Shape each pile into a log 10 inches long and about 2 inches in diameter, flouring your hands as needed. Transfer the logs to the prepared cookie sheet, spacing them about 3 1/2 inches apart.

4. Bake logs in a 325° oven until the tops are cracked and the dough inside the cracks no longer looks wet, about 40 minutes. Transfer the cookie sheet to a rack and let cool for 15 minutes. Leave the oven set at 325°.

5. Cut the logs on the diagonal into slices 1/2 inch thick. (A serrated bread knife creates neat slices.) The top layer is the most fragile and most likely to break apart, so use a gentle sawing motion to cut through the crust. After that, a firm downward push on the knife is all that's needed. Arrange the slices, cut side down, on the cookie sheet (it's all right if they touch, because they don't spread).

6. Bake until the biscotti are dried to your taste, 10 minutes (for soft and chewy) to 20 minutes (for dry and crisp). Transfer the cookie sheet to a rack and let cool completely. Store 1 to 3 days at room temperature or freeze for up to 3 months. Makes about 28 biscotti.

Recipe reprinted from The Weekend Baker by Abigail Johnson Dodge. Copyright© 2005 by Abigail Johnson Dodge. With permission of the publisher, W.W. Norton & Company, Inc.