Keep a bag of preshaped dough balls in the freezer to thaw and bake on the spur of the moment. Freeze balls on a baking sheet until firm, transfer to a freezer bag, and freeze.

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tsp. baking soda
2 tsp. ground ginger
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
Pinch ground allspice (optional)
3/4 cup unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup packed brown sugar
1 egg
1/4 cup full-flavored molasses
1/2 cup granulated sugar

1. In a medium mixing bowl combine flour, baking soda, ginger, salt, cinnamon, pepper, and allspice, if using. In a large bowl beat butter, 1/2 cup granulated sugar, and brown sugar with an electric mixer on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 2 to 3 minutes. Beat in egg until well blended. Beat in molasses. On low speed, beat in flour mixture. Cover and chill 2 hours or until easy to shape.

2. Arrange oven racks in upper and lower thirds of oven. Grease 2 cookie sheets.

3. Place remaining 1/2 cup sugar in a shallow dish. Using 1 level tablespoon, shape dough into balls. Roll in sugar, coating well; arrange 2 inches apart on prepared cookie sheets. Bake in a 350° oven 9 to 11 minutes, rearranging cookie sheets after 5 minutes, until cookies are flat, crinkled, and edges are slightly browned. Let cool on baking sheets 2 minutes; remove to wire racks. Cool completely.

4. Store cookies in an airtight container for 5 days at room temperature or up to 3 months in the freezer. Makes 4 dozen.