One chef's idea of "spicing" things up a bit includes a new life in the country-nurturing pets, hosting weekend guests, and cooking with the spices and flavors he loves best.

American Masala Farm is only a couple of hundred miles away from the chic streets of Manhattan. But the lush upstate New York landscape, dotted with LaMancha goats, heritage-breed chickens, and Tufted Roman geese, seems a world away to Suvir Saran. The New Delhi-born chef, famous for his authentic Indian dishes at cosmopolitan Dévi restaurant, sought out this country refuge, an oasis from his demands at the restaurant and as a culinary consultant. “There is nothing more satisfying than returning to this farm,” Suvir says. And when company comes calling, he merges his love of Indian spices with produce and meats from nearby growers and breeders, giving a fresh interpretation to American favorites. Peppers add surprise to a marinated pork roast and fruit cobbler; chiles and lime wake up butternut squash. With a pinch of this and a grind of that, this is dinner in the country, in Suvir’s signature American Masala style.

The easiest place to find Suvir Saran is on his Web site, suvir.com, which leads to his blog and his new line of American Masala culinary products, designed with partner Charlie Burd. Also, visit Devi restaurant in New York City (212/691-1300; devinyc.com), where he is co-owner/chef, and see his cookbooks: American Masala (Clarkson Potter, 2007) and Indian Home Cooking (Clarkson Potter, 2004).